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By: Stefanie Keto

Power looms still major consumers of domestic yarn

LAHORE: The non documented power loom sector – though affected by the high speed air jet looms installed by documented weavers – is still the major source of domestic yarn consumption, producing bed wear; curtains, cotton, lawn, and other fabrics fro local sales and grey cloth for exports.

According to data compiled by the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association there are 300,000 power looms operating in the country that produce 100 square meter of fabric per day equivalent to 6.30 billion meters per year at efficiency level of 60 percent on 350 working days a year.   About 24,000 shuttle less looms produce 300 square meter of fabric a day that amounts to 3.02 billion square meters per year while 6,000 air jet looms manufacture 1.26 billion square meters of fabric at 600 square meters per day.  The power loom sector is thus the major consumer of yarn spun by the domestic spinning industry.

Apr 17 2012

New Books!

By: Stefanie Keto

Advanced textiles for health and well-being

Marie O’Mahony.
O’Mahony (advanced textiles for fashion design, U. of Technology, Australia) offers a wide ranging survey of how technology is creating textiles in a manner that is so precise and so clever that these advanced textiles are having an enormous impact in many facets of life. Coverage begins with an introduction to the field and discussion of fibers, fabric structures, and surfaces. Following are chapters on fiber use in habitats, transport, personal attire and equipment, and the environment. Abundant illustrations support the text. Appended are a glossary, a directory of suppliers, and a bibliography.

The fashion careers guidebook

Julia Yates.
The fashion industry is exciting and glamorous–but very tough to break into. That’s all the more reason why ambitious young men and women who hope to succeed in that dynamic business take their first step to success by reading–and re-reading– The Fashion Careers Guidebook. Author Julia Yates explains the fashion industry’s many and complex facets, offers detailed descriptions of its widely varied career opportunities, and instructs her readers on effective ways to stand out from the crowd of job seekers. She advises on preparing résumés and portfolios, dealing with job interviews, and mastering the art of networking. She offers inside tips on finding and following up on fashion industry jobs that others don’t know about, and discusses internships as a possible path toward career success. Most important, she describes the jobs themselves, which include– Fashion Design –Haute couture, ready-to-wear designer, pattern cutter, illustrator, design room assistant, and more Accessories Textiles–Embroidery designer, textiles technician, tapestry maker, and more Production –Tailoring, logistics and distribution, fashion production, and more Costume –Costume designers, supervisors, and assistants Retail –Sales rep, buyer, merchandiser, display designer, and more Communication –Fashion journalist, photographer, set designer, and more This essential guidebook also presents true case histories of successful fashion workers, describes schools and courses that lead students into fashion careers, and lists web sites that offer additional advice on launching fashion careers. More than 150 color illustrations.

Designing dendrimers

edited by Sebastiano Campagna, Paola Ceroni, Fausto Puntoriero.
Chemists report on the current status and ongoing research into synthesizing materials that are branched like trees, and display properties that the same material in different configurations do not. The topics include novel methods for dendrimer synthesis, shape persistent polyphenylene-based dendrimers, redox-active organometallic dendrimers as electrochemical sensors, enlightening structure and properties of dendrimers by fluorescence depolarization, and peptide dendrimers as artificial proteins

Designer’s guide to fashion apparel

Evelyn L. Brannon.

Designer’s Guide to Fashion Apparel explores the creative process of apparel design and the development of a collection. From budget to couture, children’s to men’s and women’s, fashion-forward to traditional and formal to active, the text demonstrates the proper application of design principles in creating aesthetically-pleasing apparel while emphasizing the importance of production parameters as dictated by the needs of the target consumer. Written from an industry perspective, the book is intended to nurture the student’s interest in design while providing the thorough grounding needed for a successful career in the business.

The Ashgate companion to the history of textile workers, 1650-2000

edited by Lex Heerma van Voss, Els Hiemstra-Kuperus, Elise van Nederveen Meerkerk.
This collection offers the first systematic global and comparative history of textile workers over the course of 350 years. This period covers the major changes in wool and cotton production, and the global picture from before the Industrial Revolution through to the twentieth century. As well as offering a unique reference source for anyone interested in the history of a particular country’s textile industry, this project provides a unique resource for international comparison. By providing standardised global studies of key textile industries and workers, both geographically and thematically, this book provides a comprehensive and contemporary analysis of a major element of the world’s economy, allowing historians to challenge many of the received ideas about globalization. As such this collection will be welcomed by all scholars engaged in the history of the textile industry and international trade.

Marketing research

Carl McDaniel, Jr., Roger Gates.

Real Data, Real People, Real Research. In the Eight Edition of Marketing Research , McDaniel and Gates continue to share their real-life experiences from the industry to teach students how to make critical business decisions through the study of market research. The authors’ practical approach and emphasis on being “real” has made this one of the world’s leading marketing research texts. Like no other, this text prepares students by introducing actual data samples, marketing research professionals , and real-world case problems. Filled with engaging, current examples drawn from the authors’ ongoing involvement in the field, this comprehensive text teaches students how to become effective consumers of market research.

Product planning essentials

Kenneth B. Kahn.
This text for undergraduates, graduate students, and practitioners uses an interdisciplinary approach to cover product development and product management topics, and illustrates various tools and techniques for managing product planning efforts. Coverage progresses from concept generation and organizing people through market planning, commercialization, and launch. Chapter discussion questions are included. This second edition offers two new chapters on design and legal and public policy considerations, along with expanded discussion of global considerations and sustainable product development. Also new are simplified technical discussions of planning techniques, and best practices from recent cases. Kahn teaches marketing and directs the da Vinci Center for Innovation in Product Design and Development at Virginia Commonwealth University.

New horizons in standardized work : techniques for manufacturing and business process improvement

Timothy D. Martin & Jeffrey T. Bell.

Drawing on decades of experience in manufacturing and industrial engineering, Martin and Bell offer managers a practical discussion of how standardized work principles can be applied in an organization to verify that the process is being done correctly and to provide opportunities for process improvement. The text assumes readers have at least a basic understanding of the concepts of the Toyota Production System (TPS) and lean manufacturing. Coverage includes an overview of standardized work, the importance of keen observation in the development and improvement of standardized work, cyclic standardized work, long-cycle standardized work, and the three main worker interface levels in job design. The concepts are illustrated with examples from various industries, such as health care, construction, business processes, and food services.

By: Stefanie Keto

Dior replaces John Galliano with Raf Simons

More than a year after it fired John Galliano as creative director, Dior has reportedly selected Raf Simons to replace him, the New York Times reports. Simons, 44,  previously led Jil Sander for six years, leaving in February when Sander returned to the brand. Unlike the flamboyant Galliano, who ended each runway show with a flourish of theatricality.

By: Stefanie Keto

Searcher drawing new attention in the hunt for Amelia Earhart

For most of the 25 years he’s been investigating the disappearance of famed aviator Amelia Earhart, Ric Gillespie has gotten little traction. Experts and various self-proclaimed skeptics have dismissed, doubted, and debunked his theory that she and her navigator did not plunge into the vastness of the Pacific, but instead lived as castaways on a pinpoint of land called Nikumaroro.

A smudge in a 74-year-old photograph turned everything around. A forensic analyst in Washington thought it looked more like an object than a photographic defect. With some of the same techniques he had used to analyze security-camera footage, he made out what he thinks is the landing gear of Earhart’s long-lost plane.

Now, a senior official at the State Department has seen the photo and publicly stated there’s a “possibility that this is a strut, a wheel with a surrounding mud flap, of an airplane.”

By: Stefanie Keto

N.C. State hosts its first fashion week

Paris. New York. Milan. N.C. State?

The university has something in common with the world’s most fashionable cities this week by hosting its inaugural fashion week. N.C. State Fashion Week (www.ncstatefashionweek.com), which started Wednesday and goes through Friday, is three days of fashion shows, guest speakers and exhibitions.

The event developed as an extension of the curriculum of the university’s colleges of textiles and design.

“The idea originated over a year ago because we were implementing a new textile design program,” says Nancy Webster, professor in the textile design program and fashion week organizer. “We wanted to showcase our ability to drive the front end of the business with the creative. We are known for the technical and scientific side of textiles and design, and we wanted to show our capacity for the creative and business side, as well.”

The event kicked off on with the “Avant Garde” show, featuring radical designs by students from N.C. State, as well as those from partner schools: the Fashion Institute of Technology of New York, China’s Donghua University and Hong Kong Polytechnic University. A concluding show, with the theme “Color Fusion,” will close the event at 7:30 p.m. Friday.

By: Stefanie Keto

US space companies prepare for space station docking

Two US rocket companies are readying the first private space missions to the International Space Station (ISS). SpaceX and Orbital both have multi-billion dollar Nasa contracts to supply cargo to the station, filling the void left by the retirement last year of the space shuttle.

California-based SpaceX has set the pace so far, having successfully launched its Falcon 9 rocket and Dragon capsule into orbit, and safely returning the capsule to Earth, in December 2010.  The company says it could launch for the ISS as soon as 30 April.

By: Stefanie Keto

Govt plans strategic cotton reserve to secure supplies

In a bid to bail out the textile industry, the Government plans to build a strategic reserve of cotton to secure supplies for mills. The reserve will ensure raw material supplies to mills and help stabilise prices in times of shortage.

According to a proposal by the Textile Ministry, State-run Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) will be directed to build up a reserve of 2.5 million bales (of 170 kg each) of cotton till the cotton arrivals begin for new season. CCI is likely to procure around 10 lakh bales a month from growers for the next two months at market prices instead of minimum support prices, thus making the proposal attractive to farmers too.

“This (the cotton reserve) comes as a boost to us at a time when we are suffering because of labour issues, burdened by debt and intense competition from exporters to secure the raw material. Cash-strapped Indian mills lose out the most when raw material prices zoom and unbridled exports trigger irrational price hikes,” said Mr P.D. Damodaran, former Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association.

Apr 10 2012

New Books!

By: Stefanie Keto

Ancient textiles : production, craft and society : proceedings of the First International Conference on Ancient Textiles, held at Lund, Sweden, and Copenhagen, Denmark, on March 19-23, 2003

edited by Carole Gillis and Marie-Louise B. Nosch.
An understanding of textiles and the role they played in the past is important for anyone interested in past societies. Textiles served – and in fact still do – as both functional and symbolic items. The evidence for ancient textiles in Europe is split quite definitely along a north-south divide, with an abundance of actual examples in the north, but precious little in the south, where indirect evidence comes from such things as vase painting and frescoes. This volume brings together these two schools to look in more detail at textiles in the ancient world, and is based on a conference held in Denamrk and Sweden in March 2003. Section one, Production and Organisation, takes a chronological look through more than four thousand years of history, from Syria in the mid-third millennium BC, to Seventeenth Century Germany. Section two, Crafts and Technology, focuses on the relationship between the primary producer (the craftsman) and the secondary receiver (the archaeologist/conservator). The third section, Society, examines the symbolic nature of textiles, and their place within ancient societal groups. Throughout the book emphasis is placed on the universality of textiles, and the importance of information exchange between scholars from different disciplines.

Supply management and procurement : from the basics to best-in-class

Robert W. Turner.
In this guide for managers and procurement professionals, Turner, a veteran financial analyst and procurement specialist, compiles theory, background knowledge, methods, and analysis tools in strategic supply management and procurement. Coverage encompasses identifying, planning, designing, and mapping supply chains, with many examples. Two in-depth case studies ask readers to make decisions based on the facts and research presented, and case answers are explained in detail. The field is broken down into 20 specific areas such as value chain design and planning, benchmarks, risk identification and management, international trade, and breakeven analysis and decision making. Throughout the book, comparisons are drawn between practicing basic procurement and more advanced principles of strategic supply management; reflecting the reality of the economic recession, several chapters give examples of how practicing basic procurement can lead to disaster.

Mastering resource management using Microsoft Project and Project Server 2010

Collin Quiring, Tanya Foster.
This reference provides the in-depth guidance and step-by-step illustrated instructions not available in other books, but needed to master the use of Microsoft Project with Project Server 2010 as well as stand-alone Project Professional as it pertains to optimal utilization and management of the scarce resources devoted to project portfolios

Patternmaking

Dennic Chunman Lo.
An introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting, this practical book shows students how to interpret the human form and look at clothing through the eyes of a designer rather than a consumer. As well as explaining the proportions of human anatomy, the book introduces key tools and then takes the reader from simple pattern-cutting ideas to more advanced creative methods. Finally, the book looks at the work of fashion designers who are masters of pattern cutting, such as Comme des Gar ons, John Galliano, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake. With photographs of final and dissected garments, along with CAD/CAM diagrams to explain how those pieces were cut, the book will gradually build an understanding of pattern cutting, and enable students to experiment and create exciting patterns for their own designs.

Handbook of textile and industrial dyeing

edited by M. Clark.
Chemists and textile scientists consider first general aspects of dyeing, then dye types and processes. Among their topics are the structure and properties of textile materials, pre-treating and preparing textile materials prior to dyeing, the thermodynamics and kinetics of dyeing and dyebath monitoring systems, molecular modeling and predicting dye properties, the chemistry of reactive dyes and their application processes, disperse dyes, metal-complex dyes, sulphur dyes, environmentally friendly dyes, fluorescent dyes, and near-infrared dyes. The second volume covers applications.

Textile production in pre-Roman Italy

Margarita Gleba.
Gleba (Centre for Textile Research) focuses on evidence of textile production in the Apennine Peninsula and Sicily between 1000 and 400 BCE. In addition to providing a geographical and chronological context, the author examines a variety of archaeological evidence including fibers used and the textiles themselves, textile tools, dyes, textile technology, textile function and context (such as ship rigging, books, and garments), and trade. The text is supported by numerous photographs and illustrations. The book is intended for researchers and archaeologists working on pre-Roman sites.

Marketing research essentials.

Carl D. McDaniel.
Filled with engaging, current examples drawn from the authors’ ongoing involvement in the field, Marketing Research Essentials is a comprehensive text that teaches students how to become effective consumers of market research. The only book on the market co-authored by a full-time marketing researcher, McDaniel and Gates together bring their real-life, insider experiences from the industry to teach students how to make critical business decisions through the study of market research. Recognizing that marketing research is much more than computing sample size, learning SPSS, or conducting a focus group, the text shares with students all they need in research design, data acquisition, and data analysis, with a fresh dose of reality that is unmatched.

Inspired rug hooking : turning Atlantic Canadian life into art

Deanne Fitzpatrick.
Rug-hooking artist Deanne Fitzpatrick is renowned worldwide for her stunning rugs and patterns. Her work is in permanent exhibits at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia and the Canadian Museum of Civilization, among others, and she has made frequent radio and television appearances. Deanne is also the author of East Coast Rug-hooking Designs and Hook Me a Story. She lives in Amherst, Nova Scotia.

The wedding dress : 300 years of bridal fashions

Edwina Ehrman.
From the romance of its evolution to the splendor of its design, the wedding dress is unlike any other garment, a talisman from a fantasy world, the manifestation of dreams coming true. This book draws on wedding garments in the V&A’s renowned collection along with photographs, letters, memoirs, and newspaper accounts to explore the history of the white wedding dress and the traditions that have developed around it from 1700 to today, when designers from Vera Wang to Vivienne Westwood continue to challenge the aesthetic. Paintings, drawings, and wedding photos depict queens, princesses, celebrities, and everyday women–including Kate Middleton–in their gowns. The text considers the dress in the context of the commercialization of weddings that began in the Victorian era. The Wedding Dress is not only about costume, but also about the cultivation of the image of the bride.

By: Stefanie Keto

Fashion Trend That Goes Straight to the Hips

It sounds like a very bad idea: Design clothes with an extra flap of fabric around the part of a woman’s body about which she is most sensitive. The hip-accentuating peplum is back.

It’s springing from dresses, jackets and pants in stores thanks to high-end designers including Giorgio Armani, Celine and Jason Wu and mainstream retailers like J. Crew and H&M. Actually, the peplum doesn’t have to be a booty bummer, say designers and retailers. With the right fit, it can be flattering for most women.

By: Stefanie Keto

Specialty Textiles Inc. receives expansion grant

In Kings Mountain, N.C., city council members awarded Specialty Textiles Inc. (STI), a local textile goods manufacturer, a $15,000 grant to support its planned expansion in the community. The expansion will bring an estimated 62 new jobs and $5 million in taxable investment into Kings Mountain.